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Please read all of this some is redundant but all of it will help you with your puppy. I highly recommend a puppy class to all but a must for anyone that has never had a puppy before.
Please remember if your puppy is not learning you're not being consistent or you're trying to teach too much at one time. House breaking will be the hardest training you will have to do. Watching your puppy grow into the dog you want is your reward.
I will be feeding the puppies Purina Puppy Chow in the blue bag w/the solid colored brown morsels on the front. DO NOT feed the Purina Puppy Chow w/the colored bits on the front of the bag.
When your puppy comes home, it is important to be prepared for many training opportunities...
Puppy training basics during the first week the puppy is home is critical. It is obvious that you need certain physical items such as a dog bed or crate, food and water bowls, puppy chow, collar, leash, toys, etc. Equally as important, all family members must decide and agree on routine, responsibility and rules.
The first few days are extremely important. Enthusiasm and emotions are up. Everyone wants to feed the puppy, play with the puppy and hold the puppy. Pre-established rules are easily broken. Everyone agreed that puppy will sleep in her crate but as soon as she's home, someone melts and insists that puppy will sleep in bed. Everyone previously agreed not to let puppy jump up on them , but in the excitement, no one even notices that puppy is jumping up.
No one sleeps the first night. Puppy wins and gets to sleep in bed. The next morning we find puppy has eliminated all over the bed. So the following night puppy is banned to her crate and screams all night. No one sleeps tonight either. Grouchiness sets in; enthusiasm is down. No one wants to get up at the pre-agreed upon early morning feeding time. How are we going to housetrain puppy? How are we going to sleep with her constant whining?
Your new puppy has just been taken away from her mom and littermates. She is vulnerable and impressionable. What she needs now is security and routine. Set up a small room to be her very own special haven for the next couple of months. Paper the entire floor and put her food/water bowls and bed in one corner as well as her crate. Scatter her toys everywhere. Play with her quietly and gently. Don't flood her with attention and activity. If she looks like she wants to sleep, leave her alone. Puppies need lots of sleep.
What To Expect When House Training
Unless you can monitor your puppy 24 hours a day, don't expect the house training process to be completed until your puppy is at least 6 months old. It's normal for a young puppy to be a little 'input-output' machine. Since puppies are growing and developing rapidly at this stage, they eat more food, burn up more energy and seem to need to eliminate constantly! They also have not yet developed bowel and bladder control, so they can't 'hold it' as long as adult dogs.
Dogs and Puppies Must Learn to Inhibit Biting
First of all, dogs must learn to inhibit their bite before they are 4 months old. Normally, they would learn this from their mother, their littermates and other members of the pack. But, because we take them away from this environment before this learning is completed, we must take over the training.
Socialization Prevents Biting
By allowing your puppy to socialize with other puppies and socialized dogs they can pick up where they left off. Puppies need to roll, tumble and play with each other. When they play, they bite each other everywhere and anywhere. This is where they learn to inhibit their biting. This is where they learn to control themselves. If they are too rough or rambunctious, they will find out because of how the other dogs and puppies react and interact with them. This is something that happens naturally and it is something we cannot accomplish. It can only be learned from trial and error. There is nothing you can say or do to educate them in this realm. They must learn from their own experience.
Step 1: Be the leader of the pack.
There must be an alpha in the pack and if it is not you, will have a hard time keeping your pup under control. One way to avoid control issues is to give your puppy a den of its own to be master of. Try a crate or a nice bed on the floor beside your bed.
Step 2: Maintain calm, consistent and patient leadership.
Puppies are creatures of habit and routine and they like to know what and when to expect things. Your puppy depends on you for stability.
Step 3: Use fair and just treatment.
You need to understand how to communicate with your puppy. Dogs watch your body language, listen to your tone of voice and whether you have a smile or a frown on your face. The dogs have a keen sense of what makes you tick and that is how they survive in the wild.
Step 4: Use a clear command over and over again and your puppy can learn just about anything.
Just remember to say the dog's name before the command. This puppy is a smart dog that wants to please, so this is the perfect dog to teach tricks to.
Step 5: Follow through with your request.
The quickest way to teach your dog to ignore you is by asking for something and then ignoring them. Reward the dog if he does what you ask him to.
Step 6: Following these few simple rules will help you build trust and respect with your new canine partner.
Enjoy them and they will enjoy you.
What is Crate Training?
Crate training can be an efficient and effective way to house train a dog. Dogs do not like to soil their resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining our dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. However, there is still a far more important aspect of crate training. If your dog does not eliminate while she is confined, then she will need to eliminate when she is released, i.e., she eliminates when you are present to reward and praise her.
Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home is to restrict mistakes to a small protected area. The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite. Short term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that she will want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. Crate training also helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever she feels like it, she learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times. Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget her for extended periods of time. If your dog soils her crate because you left her there too long, the house training process will be set back several weeks, if not months.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home. Except at night, give your dog an opportunity to relieve herself every hour. Each time you let her out, put her on leash and immediately take her outside. Once outside, give her about three to five minutes to produce. If she does not eliminate within the allotted time period, simply return her to her crate.
If she does perform, then immediately reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take her to her toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her bowels and bladder are empty. During this crate training procedure, keep a diary of when your dog eliminates. If you have her on a regular feeding schedule, she should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know what time of day she usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking her out only at those times instead of every hour. After she has eliminated, she can have free, but supervised, run of your house. About one hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put her in her crate. This will prevent her from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount of time you confine her before her scheduled outing can be reduced,then eliminated.
Mistakes and Accidents During Training
If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that you have given her unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until she can be trusted, don't give her unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more time to
develop bladder and bowel control.
Most Important to remember and work on!
Puppies in general have a very strong need to chew, some more than others. However, it needs to be controlled. But be sure you are providing a proper outlet for chewing, such as gumabones, etc. as you work on controlling the problem chewing.
Some ideas for discouraging finger chewing: when your puppy clamps down, let out a very loud YELP in imitation of a hurt puppy. Then, fold your arms and ignore him for 10 minutes.
With very young puppies, this sometimes works wonders - it's the same thing that happens when they get too rough with another puppy. The wounded puppy yelps and runs off, refusing to play for a bit. The yelp must be startling enough to stop the behavior. If nothing changes, you probably weren't a good
enough actor.
However, depending on your pup's personality, this could also incite him to become aggressive and chew all the more (thought bubble: "I've wounded her, I'm going in for the kill!") In that case, you may need to use some aversive methods.
A first approach is to try Bitter Apple. Use it liberally, and not just a light spray. If you make a big impression the first time, it's likely to have a better effect. (If you doubt that, give it the lick test yourself!!!) Some puppies need more. It's helpful if you could enroll in a puppy class designed especially for young puppies in order to get the proper guidance, because it's sometimes difficult for a novice trainer to recognize when aversives should be escalated. If you are reading the puppy wrong, increasing aversives could actually make the problem worse instead of better.
To introduce an element of "natural discipline", grasp the recalcitrant pup by the scruff of the neck with one hand, place your other hand over the top of his muzzle, gently pressing his muzzle towards his chest as you say, in a low, growly tone of voice, "No BITE".
If they begin to throw a tantrum and thrash around trying to bite, just hold the line until they "give in" and "say uncle" (quit resisting). You should not find it necessary to get aggressive with a young puppy. Simple restraint is usually enough to get the message across.
Absolutely do not use any stiffer discipline without guidance from an instructor. An example of overkill is the alpha roll. Most young puppies simply do not need that level of discipline, and you can really damage the relationship by using it.
How should you properly socialize your puppy?
Don't force him into a situation he's shy about; let him meet people, children, and other dogs at his own pace. His most impressionable "imprint" period is from 3 weeks to 16 weeks of age; however, the following socialization exercises must be continued throughout his adolescent months and adult years as well:
Human Socialization:
Even before his vaccines, invite friends and relatives, particularly young children, to your house often. Keep a bowl of puppy food by the door so visitors can treat him when they arrive. Hold your puppy while you stand in front of a mall entrance and let passers-by say hello. Go to schools,
shopping centers, nursing homes, and (after vaccinations) take walks with him in different neighborhoods. Keep a pocketful of treats to give to adults and children to give to your pup - this will solidify a positive association with strangers in his mind. A pup well-socialized to 6 year olds is not necessarily well-socialized to 2-year olds; make an effort to have him meet a very wide variety of children and adults.
NOTE: Never leave a baby or toddler alone with a puppy or dog of any age. However, your pup needs to meet many babies and toddlers, so an adult should treat/praise the pup when holding or standing next to a small child. Slightly older children (under 10) often tend to get rough and hurt pups (poking eyes, pulling tails, jumping on, slapping). Allowing this is asking for trouble later, so carefully supervise all of your pup's
interactions with your children and their friends.
Canine Socialization:
Once he's had his Intratrac and 2nd Distemper/Parvo vaccines, your pup can and should play with other vaccinated puppies and friendly adult dogs as frequently as possible.
Have a "puppy party" at your home with other pups and their owners. Bring him to the local park (always on leash) to play with other friendly dogs. Sign up for a puppy kindergarten class.
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